Green Behenic: New conditioning agent with Technology in line with Nature

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Green Behenic: New conditioning agent with Technology in line with Nature

It is estimated that in the period between 2003 and 2013, the food and cosmetics global market demand for palm oil leaded to its production to reach double values. However, contrary to this demand, a study led by researchers at Duke University in the USA (2016) shows that 45% of palm oil produced in Southeast Asia is in areas where it was originally tropical rainforest. These rates are even higher for Ecuador (60.8%) and Peru (53.1%). In Brazil, 39.4% of the area planted to produce palm oil is the result of deforestation of humid forests, such as the Amazon.

The expansion of this niche market, in addition to its legacy of forest devastation, presents risks for all the biodiversity of these producing countries, which are vulnerable to the decrease and extinction of their species. This does not take into account the global levels of greenhouse gas emissions from this deforestation.

Aiming at taking care of nature, its precious active, Citróleo Group believes that it is possible to continue with the guaranteed quality of the products, maintaining the balance between technology and biodiversity conservation, without deforestation and consequently the extinction of animals, pollution of air and water, and so many other ills.

The company recently launched a new line of surfactants of natural origin, CitroTech, which has products obtained from crude vegetable oils from the Amazon rainforest.

– “The fruits are extracted by extractive communities, respecting the period of the harvest. We have a sustainable business development team in our subsidiary in Pará state, that supports communities with training on how to collect and select quality seeds, promoting and raising awareness of the sustainable use of the forest, keeping the forest standing, “says Juliano Della Coletta, Director of Operations of Citróleo.

He adds that Citróleo is attentive to trends in a global way and directs its efforts to a growing market that seeks products from a clean, efficient and mainly transparent production chain. In this scenario, it guarantees proven efficacy in the manufacture of its surfactants, which conserve and enhance the unique and special characteristics of its original products.

Within this line, we present Green Behenic (BAPDMA or Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine), a high performance primary conditioning agent, the result of intense research in a worldwide trend: products that discipline rebellious wires, or as more popularly known, “faints hair.”

Another great benefit of this product to the environment is that it is a nonionic surfactant (which in acidic medium has a cationic character); this is because, mainly driven by European restrictions, there is a decline in the use of cationic capillary surfactants, especially toxic for marine ecosystems.

The Green Behenic (BAPDMA) has excellent conditioning power with unparalleled final sensory. The product increases the brightness of the hair, partially repairs the damage caused by external agents such as hair dryer, flat iron and straighteners. In addition, it gives high untangling power, wet and dry combability, soft touch and reduced frizz and volume. Still it does not have a weigh look as it is completely adsorbed by the negatively charged surface of the hair, says Rafaella Tomazini Candido, technical analyst at Citróleo.

The product, with vegetable origin, is biodegradable, with low allergenicity and mainly, is completely free from palm oil, different from other present and unfortunately established actives in the market, like Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine – SAPDMA. Green Behenic (BAPDMA) can be formulated in conditioners, combing creams, treatment masks, serums, shampoos, among others.

In particular, the benefits found in the use of Green Behenic (BAPDMA) occur because of its source oil, the crude pracaxi oil. This oil is composed of essential fatty acids in a balanced ratio of approximately 50/50 between saturated and unsaturated (this observation indicates consistency and guides final use). Its main constituent is oleic acid (C18:1), also called omega-9.

But the particularity of pracaxi oil is in the high concentration of long chain fatty acids, behenic acid (C22:0 – uncommon in other oils in such large quantities) and lignoceric (C24:0), which together amount to almost 30% of total fatty chain concentration. The oil still contains β-carotenes (pro-vitamin A), tocopherols and tocotrienols (vitamin E), in around 0.69% of total unsaponifiable matter.

In a very unique way, all these properties of the oil of origin are conserved in Green Behenic (BAPDMA) since the whole fatty acid chain is used during the process of manufacture of the surfactant. This differential makes the product of the Citróleo Group superior in performance and sensory in relation to similar ones of the market.

Figure 1. Images of the test performed with 25 volunteers for
comparison between Green Behenic (BAPDMA) and the palm derivative.

For this evaluation, tests were conducted in volunteers, as well as laboratory tests on tresses, comparing Green Behenic (BAPDMA) with a conventional surfactant derived from palm oil, SAPDMA. Figure 1 illustrates in a practical way the results obtained directly at the final receptors of the product. On the right (green) side of both images, the hair is more aligned, with less frizz and volume, compared to the left (pink) side. This test also shows the versatility of Green Behenic (BAPDMA), as its result has been verified in both chemically treated and more natural types of hair.

Table 1. Formulations used for the comparative study between BAPDMA and SAPDMA.

In this same evaluation of efficacy, a subjective in-house research, the cosmetic appreciability showed that 86.0% of the participants considered the product good/excellent in relation to combability (wet, humid and dry), as well as softness and brightness. In addition, they considered hair with less frizz (61.0%) and volume (72.9%), all results also compared to SAPDMA. The tests on tresses still revealed that the surfactant helped in the definition of curls and alignment of the hair.

Figure 2. Tresses test showing the long-lasting effect (photo after 24 hours), definition of curls and frizz
reduction reached by Green Behenic (BAPDMA) in comparison to palm oil-derived surfactant.

In this way, the main objective of the new line of the Citróleo Group, aligned with the vision and mission of the company to promote nature as it is, is to guarantee the well-being and future of the new generations with technology of production of green raw materials, sustainable and effective.